Choosing carpets & flooring is far more complex than just finding the best-looking product. Several factors including moisture, durability, costs, and more, greatly influence your decision amongst many more.
You need to consider the varying needs of each room in the house. That means you’re probably going to pick a completely different floor for a bathroom to a living room.
Here are some room specific tips to keep in mind below
These rooms are often central open spaces that take a lot of foot traffic. Go for a floor that is highly scratch resistant and can handle the weight of heavy furniture. It it’s a carpet you’re interested in, then we would recommend a harder wearing twist pile or loop pile carpet that can handle the traffic
with a quality dense underlay.
These rooms get wet…a lot. Go for a floor that is mould and mildew resistant. You may also want a more textured floor if you’re looking for slip resistance and something warm of your bare feet.
If your bedrooms are upstairs, chances are you’ll want a floor with a soundproofing layer. This way you won’t hear trampling feet above you when you’re downstairs.
These rooms get a lot of foot (and food) traffic, so go for a floor that is low maintenance and won’t show a spec of dirt.
Here you can find some commonly asked questions, hints and tips to help you pick the perfect floor! If your question isn’t answered here please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us or come into our store to chat with one of our experts.
Measuring a floor
Choosing a floor
Maintaining a floor
Solid Wood or Engineered
Acclimatising a floor
T0G / AC Rating
How do you measure a room for carpet or sheet material?
Measuring your room is a relatively simple task, but it pays to measure carefully and properly to make sure you get enough material for your room.
Step one is to take the measurements of the longest and widest points of the room.
One common mistake is to measure simply from wall to wall, however unless your room is entered by a step, all rooms have a doorway leading to them, so you must be sure to measure into the middle of the doorway.
To then figure out the square footage of the room, multiply these measurements together (i.e. if the room is 4 metres wide and 5 metres long, you will need enough flooring for 20 square metres).
We then advise adding 10% to this dimension as walls do run out, and this ensures it fits and accommodates for cuts and waste.
You then need to see which width of material is available in your chosen design. The most common width is 4 metres; however, many rooms are over 4 metres wide which means you would need to place a seam at this interval, or alternatively, opt for a 5-metre width which most carpet manufacturers offer to avoid seams.
Sheet vinyl manufacturers will usually offer their material in 2-metre, 3-metre and 4-metre wide to save on waste. 4 metres will be the widest available in today’s market.
Some carpet manufacturers offer 1-metre, 2-metre, 3-metre, 4-metre and 5-metre wide which is useful, however we would advise checking with the store first to see which manufacturers offer this service.
To conclude, we would always recommend you book one of our representatives to make a visit to your site and confirm all measurements.
We can also offer furniture removal, trimming of doors and the uplift and removal of your existing carpet.
How do you measure a room for laminate flooring, carpet tiles or LVT?
To keep it simple, anything that comes in packs, we advise enough material is ordered to allow for cuts and waste.
The first step is to calculate the exact floor area in square metres (length x width), ensuring you measure into the middle of any doorways, and then add 10% to the final measurement.
We will then find out which pack size your chosen material is available in and divide this into the room area to give you the nearest whole pack.
Occasionally this will not give you a whole number (e.g. 10.5 packs including the 10% allowed for wastage). If it’s a fairly straightforward room, then you could round down. However, we would certainly advise rounding up in all situations to ensure you have enough material for your room.
For rooms with inconsistent shapes, our top tip is to divide the room into as many rectangles as you need, find the total measurement of each one individually and then add them all up together.
I’m not sure which floor to choose, can I order a sample?
For sure! We always advise a visit to our store first to view all of our carpet and flooring ranges in person and we often have sample books of each range on show which you are able to take home.
We do advise that you view the chosen material in both daylight and artificial light, as colours and shades can vary depending on the type of light.
Different paints and fabrics can also bring out certain aspects of a particular colour, so we would always advise selecting carpets and flooring before selecting your paint colour.
A top tip is that it is far easier to match a paint to a carpet, than the other way around, as there are more colourways available in paints than there are in carpets and flooring.
We also have mini samples of all our manufacturers hard flooring, which you are able to take home.
If we don’t have your particular choice in store, then we can arrange for it to be sent straight to your doorstep, free of charge, direct from the manufacturer.
How should I clean my laminate floor?
Laminate floors require a special kind of maintenance to keep them spotless.
We do not recommend using a wet mop as this will soak the material and can seep into and under the laminate, causing it to warp and loose its shape.
We normally advise a soft brush to sweep the floor, or a hoover with a brush attached to remove any dirt or grit.
We then advise you fill up a spray trigger bottle with the manufacturers recommended cleaning solution. Spray a fine mist onto your newly laid floor, and using a glider with a mop attachment, gently wipe over your floor.
The mop attachments are usually machine washable and can be replaced with ease, all of which are available in store.
At Goddens, we always provide after sales service which includes routine maintenance. Get in touch with a member of the team if you have any more questions.
If I damage my laminate floor, can it be repaired?
Yes, it can. As a rule, the closer the damage to the perimeter wall, the less rows we would have to take up to get to the damaged board.
Another method is to remove the board without taking up the floor, which can be a lengthy procedure. The use of PVA wood adhesive is required to glue the new board back into position, which isn’t as stable as taking up the floor and using the click system to fit the new board back into position.
Other types of flooring like LVT can also be replaced with less fuss, although sometimes a little more work to the sub-floor may be required to make good.
We can always come and assess the damage prior to working on it, please get in touch with a member of the team to make an enquiry.
Which floors can you use with underfloor heating?
Underfloor heating is becoming an extremely popular option, especially for new build projects.
We have been installing carpets and hard flooring over underfloor heating for a few nears now, and most manufacturers will have their own installation instructions which we have become familiar with.
If choosing a carpet, the retailer must be aware of the recommended TOG rating which is normally 2.00 and should not be exceeded, we recommend an underlay with a low TOG value to ensure easy passage of heat flow into the room.
Please also note that pump screeds with underfloor heating do require a specific preparation process which we are also familiar with, if you need to know more, please get in touch.
The flooring options we have available that you can use with underfloor heating are endless, so we recommend coming in to see us and discuss with a member of our team.
Solid Wood or Engineered
This is one of the biggest questions and debates we have in store. If you have time, make yourself a cuppa and sit down to find out the honest answers as to what is best for your newly refurbished room.
We stopped showing and installing solid wood many years ago due to the fact that in the UK we have one of the biggest changes in temperature compared to many other countries.
This can bring instability to solid wood, as it is a living, breathing piece of nature and will react to changes in temperature and humidity.
Many manufacturers advise a ‘full stick down’ or ‘nail down’ fitting procedure to restrict the movement of the solid wood, however this will increase the cost as the sub-floor will need to be prepared with a smoothing compound, or a 5.6mm minimum thickness marine ply.
You would also then be required to purchase the manufacturers adhesive to enable the product to be fully adhered or ‘secret nailed’ to the substrate. It must be noted that the installer will also request additional labour costs for the lengthy time this takes to install.
This is all well and good if you are prepared to pay for this. However, you must also check that the retailer/installer has taken moisture readings and is satisfied that the sand/cement or pump screed is below 75% relative humidity (with new build projects often it’s not).
Sufficient time must also be given for the floor to dry out naturally. If underfloor heating is present, this can be used to aid the drying time if running on low when commissioned.
We are not suggesting solid wood cannot be installed, as we have done it successfully ourselves, many times in the past. However, given the additional costs and high risks involved, solid wood has had the highest failure percentage in our 20 years of trading.
If you can get over all of these hurdles successfully, we advise a maintenance programme either by yourself or by a wood specialist (which will again incur additional costs) because oak, being the most popular wood species, is ‘soft’ – meaning it will mark and scratch easily.
We always have our customers best interests at heart, so ensure you take all of these points into consideration when choosing between solid and engineered wood for your new flooring.
Engineered wood flooring is made of a core of hardwood or plywood, with a layer of hardwood veneer on the top of the surface. It can range in thickness, depending on the quality, but is typically between 7-22mm.
We always advise our customers that there are much fewer risks involved when purchasing an engineered wood floor.
Engineered wood is far more stable due to the number of layers of quality ply beneath the real wood topping, which are normally constructed at 90 degrees to each other. This means there is less movement with change in temperature and humidity.
Often our customers feel they need to ‘sand & seal’ solid wood floors, however with engineered wood there is no requirement, as over time you will reduce the thickness of the real wood topping. We do, however, always recommend a maintenance programme with any flooring.
Unfortunately, we have seen many floors over the years, when we have returned to a customer’s house, who have not applied a maintenance programme to their flooring and it doesn’t look as it should. This is usually due to neglect.
We use the Quick-Step® Parquet engineered ranges, which have a great maintenance oil. This can be poured into your routine cleaner every 4th clean, and keeps your new wood floor looking great for years.
If you do decide to use Goddens to supply and install your new engineered wood floor, we provide after care service and will run through with you on completion and at point of sale as to how to clean and maintain your lovely new engineered wood floor.
Which floors can you use in the bathroom?
All floors can be laid into a bathroom. However, some are more suitable than others.
Carpets can go into bathrooms, but we would always recommend choosing a carpet with an impervious (gel) back or man-made backing, so as not to rot the carpet.
The most popular choice for a bathroom would be vinyl, as it’s easy to clean and wipe, and not affected by water. Most vinyl installations will require the sub-floor to be prepared prior to installation to ensure longevity.
We have known laminate flooring to go into bathrooms, and some of our manufacturers have designed waterproof laminates ideally suited to wet areas. However, consideration must be given to the toilet, sink and around the skirting boards, as an expansion gap between 5-8mm must be left.
Many customers and builders tend to install everything on top of the newly laid laminate floor which is fine until there is a problem, and then more work is required to remove the damaged floor. This can be a major negative of installing laminate flooring into wet areas.
LVT is also a popular choice for wet rooms as it is easy to wipe and clean.
If you have any further questions on bathroom floor, please get in touch with a member of the team – we are happy to help.
How do you acclimatise a floor?
Temperature, moisture, and humidity are all present in your home and may have an effect on your new flooring, this can cause it to expand or contract as conditions change.
British Standards ask that all carpet and floor coverings are brought to site 24-48 hours prior to installation to climatise to the room temperature before installation (18-24 degrees).
We can confirm if this can be done, then the installation will benefit as the likelihood of a ‘call back’ is greatly reduced.
Essentially, carpets are manufacture using ‘latex’ which adhered the carpet fibres to the backing, when this becomes warm it is more ‘pliable’.
A typical example would be in the UK winter months, a carpet can be below the 18-24 degrees recommended temperature. If it is then brought into a warm home with the heating turned up it may not become pliable, quick enough for the fitter. Saying that, most do warm up fairly quickly.
It should be noted that it is not always possible to climatise a material due to varying factors such as travelling distance and requested time frames. So please take this into consideration.
More importance should be given to higher value floor coverings which require longer installation times and cost more to repair or re-install.
Can I use my old carpet underlay under my new carpet or flooring?
We have always used the saying “every carpet deserves a new underlay” which is very true and usually the case.
We have learnt over the years that not every customer will want to buy new underlay, for various reasons (and we understand money doesn’t grow on trees!). However, if this is the case we cannot accept any future queries relating to the re-use of the underlay as this can increase “premature flattening”, especially in main walkways.
Neither do we recommend using your old underlay beneath other types of floor coverings, as underlay can vary depending on the type of flooring.
What is a TOG rating?
A tog is a unit of measurement for the thermal resistance of a material. A higher tog rating provides better insulation.
Tog ratings have a large impact on the decision of which flooring material should be chosen in a particular situation.
We can help you choose which is best for your home – just ask a member of our expert team.
What is AC rating?
‘Abrasion Criteria’ or ‘AC’ rating measures how well your laminate flooring will resist damage from abrasion, impact, stains, household chemicals and burns.
It is important to understand the product’s suitability for its intended application to gauge as to how well it will perform in your chosen room.
All Quick-Step® floors have achieved an AC-3 or AC-4 rating, meaning they can withstand normal wear and tear association with increased foot traffic in heavy residential or light commercial applications.
Unfortunately, no floor covering is impervious to damage.
What is the usual delivery time?
Delivery times can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer but, in general, carpets are usually delivered to us within 2 weeks (sometimes faster or slower depending on stock levels). We therefore advise up to 3 weeks from order to install.
As Karndean and other LVT floors are specialist, there is usually a 4-week waiting time for these. However once in stock they can be delivered within days.
Laminate floors are normally delivered within days and can be installed within 2 weeks.
Curtains and Roman blinds can take anywhere up to 5 weeks due to the workroom that makes these products and as they are all made to measure.
Our blinds are usually ready in around 2 weeks, give or take a few days, again – all made to measure.
If you have any more questions please get in touch with a member of the team.